Revolution Beauty: “Building a British brand of global beauty”

You might not have heard of Revolution Beauty yet, let alone its co-founder and creator Adam Minto. But, if he succeeds, that will soon change.

Tomorrow he is launching the business he launched eight years ago on the London Stock Exchange with an invoiced value of almost £ 500million. And that’s just the last step in his plan, he says.

“I honestly think we are doing something very different. I think we can build a global beauty business to challenge the big guys – businesses that have always been there and normally acquire businesses like us.

Versatile: Revolution’s Adam Minto is already selling in 100 countries

Already selling in more than 100 countries, Minto – who is also a managing director – says he has ignored approaches from L’Oréal, Revlon, Unilever and Coty in an effort to remain independent.

“Each brand ends up selling itself to these multinationals. What Revolution is trying to do for the consumer, for the business, for our team, is provide a positive outlook on the beauty industry and do what most businesses aren’t fortunate enough to do. make.

“I have manufactured, designed, developed products for major beauty brands all my life. But I felt that the industry had become elitist. It’s not meant to be controversial. But the industry had a bad image – only used models, even retouched beautiful people, and forced this version of beauty on the consumer.

“It was a question of perfection. I felt the industry was overwhelmed and needed to change. We use real people. We have been humane from the start when, incredibly, the industry was not. All of those things that are completely natural to us: body positivity and reality.

Minto, 51, started his first business in 1989 with his father Peter.

He was determined not to join his father’s business in the beauty packaging industry. So together they created a separate – “not very imaginative” company called Minto & Family, he says.

He soon found himself supplying products like Revlon and Rimmel as well as drugstore boots that brought high prices to the industry. “It just exploded – I was in the right place at the right time. In 1999, when we sold the company, I was making over 100 million lipsticks a year.

Several incarnations later and an earlier business that “just didn’t work out,” Minto met current business partner Tom Allsworth, now president, and started Revolution.

“I met someone who was really the best opposite to me with Tom. I come from a creative and branded environment and he from an operational environment. It’s the ant of my dec, as they say.

“I knew the industry inside out, I knew how to manufacture, how to expand production. I thought digital was going to be the future – which sounds crazy to say in hindsight because it’s very obvious now, especially after the pandemic.

“But it wasn’t easy at the time. Even now, over 90 percent of the mass [market] the beauty industry is still sold in stores, I don’t think it will be in seven years.

Not content with first developing the activity in the United Kingdom, the duo have already defined global ambitions. “I created a lot of brands for other companies and realized they had made mistakes, focusing on the UK and not going global until much later. Of course, at that point a competitor comes in or else the market moves when you are ready. It’s the same with American brands. There are very few global brands.

The couple have since assembled a team of industry veterans to help them grow and create a global infrastructure following financial support in 2017 from a beauty investment boutique, TSG Consumer. Revolution now sells in 45 countries in-store and via e-commerce in over 100 countries. The UK accounts for a third but America will be the biggest this year. Tomorrow, Allsworth and Minto will each sell £ 15.6million of shares and both retain a stake of £ 78million, or just over 30% of the company. Sales amounted to £ 157.6million in the 14 months to the end of February.

They have built warehouse and logistics “centers” in the UK, US and Australia and field teams to manage opportunities in a handful of specific countries.

“I wanted to create a digital first global brand. I guess we wanted to build a mini-L’Oreal or a mini-Estée Lauder. As part of our strategy, we have traveled around the world to very different places – Poland and the Czech Republic, for example. Totally different from Italy or Turkey.

“We did this primarily to build this global brand to make sure that the product offering was also suitable for different tastes, different skin tones and, in some places, prices, and to build an operational infrastructure. to support this growth. Choice for the consumer was the most difficult issue: the difficulty of getting a concealer and foundation that matched skin tone, the price and the disparity in quality – that you had to pay a higher price. high to obtain a product of incredible quality.

Minto says the company is now poised to become “one of the top 20 beauty companies in the world.”

All smiles: Adam Minto says the company is now capable of becoming

All smiles: Adam Minto says the company is now capable of becoming “one of the 20 best beauty companies in the world”

He says Revlon – which he already sells in individual retail stores – is the 20th largest beauty company with a turnover of $ 2.4 billion (£ 1.7 billion). But, despite the initial successes, he stresses that his exposure to these markets is still low. “Remember, we only have a narrow cast at the moment. Only one retailer in each country. But we believe we can develop a similar size business [to Revlon] over the next seven years. To annual sales of billions? – Yes, that’s what I think possible at the time.

He cites Asos and Boohoo as companies that have flown on the stock market, adding: “I think the beauty market is going to undergo the same kind of change as the fashion market – balanced between digital and bricks and mortar. “

On the eve of his debut on the stock market, he looks back on the journey he “started 32 years ago with my father”, who died 19 years ago almost to the day. “He would be very proud,” he said.

“People might think it’s an overnight success – eight years might not seem that long – but I’ve been in the industry for 32 years. So it’s been a long time to get here.

“I see the stock market as a form of independence. I’m definitely not criticizing anyone because they’re amazing people, but Jo Malone, Bobbi Brown, Mac Cosmetics, amazing brands, they had to sell.

“I have this privilege now. We owe it to the team and the industry not to sell. Not that they did anything wrong. But I think we can bring a different point of view by remaining independent.

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Kylie Cosmetics relaunches with purchasable livestream – Glossy

Kylie Jenner’s infamous lip kits are back on the market, as the star bets on live streaming as part of her Kylie Cosmetics relaunch.

After a brief pause after the mark wiped her Instagram and closed its site in May, Kylie Cosmetics relaunched this morning with a new site design and reformulated products with “clean” and “vegan” designations. Uploaded shortly after 9:00 am PST, the site “broke the Internet,” crashed for a few minutes as enthusiastic fans commented on Twitter about their attempts to log in and shop. To kickstart the relaunch, Jenner hosted a buyable livestream on the DTC site, showcasing its products as links to buy them appearing on the screen. Clicking on a product in the feed took users to a purchase page while the live feed continued. The newly revamped brand will launch at Ulta in August, Jenner said during the livestream, and will also be available in Nordstrom in the United States.

It was the first time the brand had used direct shopping, according to a spokesperson. Kylie Cosmetics is known to be one of the early adopters of new e-commerce models.

“Kylie was one of the first to take the flash inventory drop approach. [in 2015]said Jay Myers, co-founder of software development company Bold Commerce.[Since,] customers have become accustomed to shopping this way, especially with big brands backed by celebrities. Software and e-commerce platforms have even adapted to better support this model. FOMO is a huge factor in the growth of beauty product sales.

The new DTC site also includes a virtual shopping experience, where users can click in a virtual nightclub to see makeup looks on digital avatars, then click to access featured product listings.

Several items were sold out by 10:50 a.m. PST, including five matte lip kits and a lip gloss.

During the live broadcast, Jenner said the reason for her relaunch was, “It kind of was still in the plan. It’s just important to evolve in the clean, vegan world. Added, “There’s so much newness out there. Doing that overhaul and that kind of elevation was the best thing right now.”

The relaunch comes shortly after Jenner’s sister Kim Kardashian announced the rebranding of her own beauty line, KKW Beauty. There has been speculation online that the two raises may have something to do with the lawsuit by the maker of Kylie Cosmetics and KKW Beauty Seed Beauty against Coty, Inc. Andrew Stanleick, vice president for Americas of Coty Inc. and CEO of Kylie Cosmetics, recently declared that the lawsuit is “resolved” and has nothing to do with the raises.

Kylie Cosmetics ranked 8th in a June 2021 ranking of premium beauty brands by Launchmetrics, based on its ‘media impact value’ (MIV) metric, which tracks influencers, print media, celebrities, third party partners and brand media channels. According to Launchmetrics, much of the Kylie Cosmetics buzz comes, unsurprisingly, from Jenner’s own star power. The agency found that 20% of the brand’s MIV came from two Jenner Instagram posts in June. Additionally, he estimated that 65% of the brand’s total MIV came from Instagram posts.

When it comes to mentions by other Instagram influencers, Kylie Cosmetics’ hiatus brought her down in the beauty brand rankings by influencer marketing software company CreatorIQ. Based on mentions and engagement from posts on influencer posts mentioning the brand name, Kylie Cosmetics fell year over year to 68 in the second quarter of 2021. J mentions ‘likes on posts mentioning @kyliecosmetics fell 50% year over year, The agency said it was driven by fewer mega- and macro-influencers mentioning the brand in 2021.

To create some hype for the rebranding, Jenner posted a three-part YouTube series on Kylie Cosmetics featuring her mom Kris Jenner, brand manager Jen Cohan and sales manager Megan Mildrew. In the videos, she expressed interest in a Kylie Cosmetics collaboration with Travis Scott, the father of her daughter, Stormi. Scott entered the beauty world last year when he launched a very popular collaboration scent with Byredo. “We actually talked about it a lot,” she said of a possible collaboration with Scott during the livestream.

With the recent acquisition of Coty, Kylie Cosmetics also plans to expand its global expansion. According to data from Launchmetrics, the brand currently receives 70% of the MIV from the US market.

Jenner announced in her livestream that over the coming year, the revamped brand will be launching Take-Away Powders, an anniversary collection, and a second Halloween collection, which will be a collaboration. She also said she will be launching a new brand for her daughter Stormi. The new label is “Not Kylie Baby,” another baby brand that she recently announced on Instagram.

How BoxyCharm is betting on “the turn to glamor” – Glossy

Right before the pandemic hit in March 2020, BoxyCharm launched its very first full branded take-back box with Fenty Beauty. Fast forward to almost a year and a half later, and he kicked off his second with Anastasia Beverly Hills as he bets on returning to glam.

The online beauty box retailer this month kicked off its full Anastasia Beverly Hills Beauty Box buyout for its $ 35 premium box, offering the brand’s colorful Novina makeup palette, Moisturizing Oil, among other products. , liquid lipstick and eyebrow defining. The launch comes as brands see makeup rebounding with the lifting of mask mandates and the return to in-person events. BoxyCharm’s # 1 business category in Q1 2021 was skin care, but this shifted to makeup in Q2.

“I really see people who want to have a whole new routine for the summer,” said Claudia Soare, CEO of Anastasia Beverly Hills. Previously, “people didn’t buy a lot of lips – that kind of category died as a category during the pandemic,” she said. “Even the foundation was a little harder because it fades and smears on your mask.”

Kristy Westrup, Vice President of Merchandising and Consumer Information at BoxyCharm, said: “We clearly see in our consumer information a shift towards glamor. During Covid-19, we certainly saw a slight drop in makeup overall – mostly lips for some obvious reason and a slight increase in skin care. But we always stayed pretty consistent with eye shadows, eyebrows, foundation products, ”she said. The e-merchant has increased its skin care and wellness offerings during the pandemic. But in the past 2-3 months, BoxyCharm has seen a return in demand for lip products, as well as an increase in other makeup categories such as eyebrows. The company declined to share specific sales figures.

“We really focus on strong colors: strong eyelashes, strong lips,” Westrup said. “The eyebrows have also been extremely hot for us, and they continue to be one of the top sellers.”

This is the first time the company has added Anastasia Beverly Hills to its boxes. During the pandemic, more and more beauty brands became interested in brand discovery opportunities for subscription box partnerships.

“It’s a great way for us to reach new customers,” Soare said. “There are a lot of customers who might say, ‘Oh, I dunno, I’ve never tried their brand before,’ but subscription boxes encourage people to ‘take a chance’ on new brands.

Before the pandemic, some brands of beauty subscription boxes were experiencing a decline. Birchbox laid off 25% of its staff in February 2020. But subscription boxes saw a slight increase in interest of consumers and brands due to the e-commerce boom of the pandemic.

“There has been a shift to our business model because we have given brands the opportunity to put their products in the hands of millions of people to test and try them out. [Otherwise,] they couldn’t do that. They couldn’t fit into a Sephora, ”Westrup said.

The pandemic has also helped position the company as a “marketing powerhouse” for brands during the pandemic, she said. This marketing opportunity means exposure to BoxyCharm’s strong network of influencers who promote the boxes, which has included Kylie Jenner for almost two years now. For the Anastasia Beverly Hills box, he added Kim Kardashian to promote BoxyCharm on Instagram for the first time.

BoxyCharm also tapped into viral trends from TikTok and Gen Z influencers. This month’s box was featured in videos by TikTok makeup star Abby Roberts, who made a short video for TikTok and Reels. showing the “smoky lip»Trend, and influencer« GlamwithSuzan », who made the multicolored eyeshadow hack.

In addition to celebrity promotions, BoxyCharm also bets on user-generated social content. “The way that Boxy Charm sets itself apart from everyone else is that our ‘charmers’ are almost micro-influencers,” Westrup said, referring to the company’s followers. “They see themselves as influencers and they are extremely active socially. “

Ipsy is also known for its connection with Kardashian, which acquired BoxyCharm in October 2020. The companies remain “competitors,” operating separately under parent company BFA Industries, and operations are “business as usual,” Westrup said. “We strive to ensure that Ipsy retains its basic DNA and that Boxy retains its basic DNA. While Ipsy stays at a lower price point and tends to offer luxury samples, BoxyCharm is known for its oversized products for just over double the price of Ipsy.

BoxyCharm’s second brand buyout will not be the last. “It’s a very successful business model for us,” Westrup said. “You will see more rework boxes in the future of Boxy.”

DTC Beauty Brands Replace Chat Groups with Private Online Clubs – Glossy

Part focus group, part influencer campaign planner, and part social club, online private label groups are gaining popularity among DTC startups.

Organized on a variety of social platforms, such as Instagram, Facebook and Geneva, these B2B mini-communities are often made up of influencers, friends of founders and, sometimes, loyal customers. For smaller brands that don’t have the massive market research budgets of big beauty conglomerates, groups help founders get honest feedback in real time.

When the founder of the hair care brand Ceremonia, Babba Rivera, was preparing to launch her brand before the pandemic, she organized an “insider community” of influencers. who would meet for lunch to provide product feedback and ideas. When the pandemic hit, the search for an effective way for the group to go virtual was underway.

“It started on WhatsApp and then we quickly realized that there were a lot of limitations with WhatsApp,” especially when it comes to group size, Rivera said. Eventually, she stumbled across the Slack-style messaging startup in Geneva, where she interacts with a group of 150 members every week. Before its official launch in May 2021, Geneva in beta version was used by the wellness brand Golde and the e-merchant Geenie.

Members of the Ceremonia Insider Group “are all part of our product development, ”Rivera said. “We ask them what they think about it. They can test our first samples in the lab, and they can provide feedback on it, iterate on that formula, and be part of it from ideation to sampling to launch.

Golde, meanwhile, has been using Geneva for his #ClubGolde ambassador program for over six months.

“I was looking for a place for them to connect with each other beyond commenting on others’ photos on Instagram or [using] messaging channels, ”said Maitreya Brooks, Head of Partnerships and Community at Golde. She said if Geneva didn’t exist, Slack would be the next choice, but Geneva offers additional features, including group videos and an event calendar. “Slack, to me, just feels more work-oriented to me, and Geneva feels like it’s fostering more of a community,” said Brooks. “Community is Golde’s backbone. This is definitely our top priority whenever we think about anything like new products or what is the most important aspect of the brand.

In the group, Golde shares campaign instructions, while influencers share their content ideas and posts with each other for inspiration. Beyond the business side, it has also morphed into a social club, with conversations on lifestyle topics including wellness, recipes and home decor, as well as recommendations from restaurants and natural wines. Members also use it to schedule social gatherings in real life.

“It feels more supportive and community-based than Instagram because you don’t just DM individual people,” Brooks said.

Members of these groups often blur the line between enthusiastic customers and influencers, and groups create branded evangelists from those who join them. Ceremonia, for example, includes not only influencers, but also microinfluencers and clients of its Geneva group. Instagram followers can send a DM to the brand and fill out a form to be added.

Another way to organize these groups is private Instagram accounts. Newly launched Gen-Z wig Waeve boot uses Instagram to organize his private group of 300 members which he calls his “Waeve Baes”. The brand looks to the group for influencer marketing and product development.

“Basically we ask them about everything, like ‘What do you want to see in the package?’ “What styles do you like? “‘What’s important to you, when it comes to the tutorial videos you want?'” Said Mary Imevbore, co-founder and CEO of Waeve. “Everything we do, we share with them first. “

“They’re part of our team, basically,” she said. “Yes, there are three founders, but there are so many more people in our community who are helping us create this thing and take it forward. I want people to care. ”

These groups are decidedly more business-oriented than the private consumer groups organized by brands. The latter is a marketing strategy that beauty labels in particular More shiny, Versed, Glow Recipe, and Curology are now using or have used in the past. Glow Recipe, for example, now has over 20,000 members on his private Instagram account @realglowgang, which he uses for sampling and product reviews.

But brands are thinking about alternative options, in order to open their micro-communities to a larger group of customers. “We’re planning to open, but for now it’s a closed group,” Rivera said.

Makeup legend Bobbi Brown stages her own beauty evolution

In 2007, Bobbi Brown, the makeup mogul, was my first interview as I was starting out in journalism. She told me about the wisdom of her mother who helped her prepare for her career path, she has always touched me ever since. It’s the same career advice that seems to have guided Brown’s continued reinvention, his latest endeavors include his return to beauty with his new makeup line. jones road beauty and enter the wellness area with its range of supplements that promote health from the inside out, Evolution_18.

“My mom asked me if I could do anything in the world that I wanted for my birthday, what would it be? I said I wanted to play with makeup. She said go to school for that and take it to the next level, ”and that’s exactly what Bobbi Brown did.

Back when she went to college there was no makeup or entrepreneurship degree, but she built her own unconventional major at Emerson College, deciding which theatrical makeup was the start of her incredible career which was (and continues to be) driven solely by her passion for makeup, which makes people feel confident and Brown’s innate entrepreneurial spirit.

For anyone who knows the history of beauty, you know the making of the legend: in the 1980s Bobbi Brown entered the beauty scene as a freelance makeup artist in the landscape of shiny neon lipsticks and faces. strongly profiled. She couldn’t find lipsticks to match the color of the lips and, out of necessity, constantly mixed her own colors to match the model’s faces, making them look healthier and more natural, a novelty for the time. From this major gap in the market, she launched her eponymous company, Bobbi Brown, initially with a line of 10 essential lipsticks in lip color. Originally, the company was an independent brand run from her home in Montclair, New Jersey, where she packed lipstick orders from her kitchen, her first baby boy sitting in her high chair, her husband sending out lipstick orders. lipstick orders at the local post office. Office.

Just 4 years after its initial launch, the line has grown to include more products and has become the number one makeup brand at Bergdorf and Neiman Marcus. Then Leonard Lauder of Estée Lauder called to make an offer. “You beat us in every store,” he said at dinner with Brown and her husband Steven Plofker. Lauder made an offer Brown couldn’t refuse that would allow him to maintain creative control as Creative Director, The Trap – a 25-year long non-compete that would end in October 2020. At the time of this deal , 38 – 63 year old Bobbi Brown didn’t think 63 year old Bobbi Brown would like to work in her 60s… she didn’t know much!

When Brown left her eponymous brand at the end of 2016, she wasn’t thinking of creating another line of cosmetics, “it was the first time in years that I had a clean slate and was promoting my ninth book. , Beauty from within, which was 80% diet and 20% makeup and you can see that even in this book the makeup was starting to change, it was getting less and less important, ”says Brown.

She decided to go back to school by obtaining her diploma as a health coach from the Institute of Integrative Nutrition. A decision that she made because she finally had the time to do it, but also because she described herself as “crazy about health and greedy for life”. Now she was blessed with so much knowledge about the quality of products and their impact on health. At the same time, she was invited to do a Masterclass and went to India to teach at the very first makeup festival.

The timing of starting a new business was the result of the combination of this newly acquired knowledge and the revolutionary way in which brands could speak directly to their consumers: “I was so interested in the new ways the world went DTC and social. . Being a makeup artist and loving makeup so much, I thought I could do something – I don’t mean better – but something different, ”Brown said.

Brown is showing women around the world that if they believe in something at any stage of life, no matter how old they are, there is no better time than the present to move on and be there. arrive.

Jones Road Beauty launched in October, during the pandemic, just a week before the US presidential election, “and if you ask me why the date – that was when my non-competition was over,” Brown shared. “But also what was I going to wait for?” There was so much going on in the world – was I going to wait for the next quiet moment? I didn’t think there would be one and really, there wasn’t, ”says Brown.

Jones Road Beauty bridges the gap between clean, skin-friendly makeup and high performance. The new line of beauty products is a literal product of Bobbi Brown’s 30 years of experience distilled into a line of easy, cool and versatile products that are easy to use and for all ages, skin types and looks from minimal to dramatic.

Brown’s initial idea for his brand over 25 years ago and his new brands today have always had the same philosophy: “My mission has always been the same – what I tell people is different and modern, but my mission since I started has always been to teach people that if you wear makeup that makes you look like yourself, you’re going to feel confident and look better. Jones Road is still rooted in this idea of ​​self-uplifting – with Evolution_18 it also offers a range of products to promote beauty and well-being from within. The idea being that when you feel healthier, it shows through your skin, hair, and nails.

Evolution_18 is the first and only brand to offer easy-to-mix powdered supplements containing both collagen and magnesium, which when combined provide a powerful combo to nourish muscles, boost elasticity in the body. skin and promote general well-being and calm for the mind and body. .

“As a makeup artist for so many years, I’ve worked with women’s skin and learned early on that if you take care of yourself from the inside out, your skin looks a lot better. As a makeup artist, it was really interesting for me to understand what makes a person healthy and what makes their skin beautiful. So these products were really based on my love for health on the inside, beauty on the outside.

His new brands are representative of a conglomerate of everything Brown wanted to teach and manufacture, “and honestly, I haven’t had that much fun in my entire life. All this freedom is also because, with 30 years of experience, I know what to do but also what not to do.

Best New Makeup and Beauty Products of July 2021 Buy Now | Drunk Elephant, Uoma Beauty, Charlotte Tilbury

additional social ground
July’s best makeup launches are all essential

With new makeup dropping at sky-high daily rates, we’ve decided to make it easier for you to sort through the selection of the latest pencils, lipsticks, and more. Seduce editors look forward to every new launch and emerging brand to find the stars in bright and shimmering selections every month. While we have a soft spot for our particular favorites, our heart rate increases with each exciting makeup ride. Brands are always drastically expanding their ranges with ingenious formulas, vibrant colors and juicy collaborations – and we’re absolutely here for that.

With each new product, it’s exciting to see what innovations beauty brands come up with to improve a formula or design. You could easily say that makeup is the one thing that is exempt from the mantra “if it ain’t broke, don’t fix it”. This is the exciting part of the ever-expanding market: finding new makeup treasures to help us present ourselves to the world the best and truest no matter how colorful or minimalist our favorite looks may be.

As we always do with hair and skin care, we share the new makeup that falls in july that we recommend that you add to your cart. As the world slowly opens, wear these products with pride on your next (safe and responsible) outing, or just for fun while experimenting at home and attending your millionth Zoom reunion. If you’re curious, you can also check out last month’s launches that we still love.

All products featured on Allure are independently selected by our editors. However, when you buy something through our retail links, we may earn an affiliate commission.

Cartier touts sustainability through art exhibition

The Social Edition is our weekly series that delves deep into luxury initiatives in the social media landscape in China. Each week, we highlight brand campaigns running on Chinese digital platforms – WeChat, Weibo, Tmall, Douyin and beyond.

Our coverage highlights global luxury brands, global beauty brands and local Chinese brands. The latter provides an overview of some of China’s most successful campaigns, which often come from local actors and are outside the beauty and fashion space.

In this week’s roundup, we take a look at three campaigns, including the ‘Trees’ exhibition recently unveiled by the Cartier Contemporary Art Foundation, the C-beauty brand pop-up store INTO YOU, and the Lemaire installation project. at Dover Street Market Beijing.

Cartier touts sustainability through art exhibition


MARK Cartier
CATEGORY Luxury jewelry
PLATFORMS Weibo, WeChat
WAY Short video, live broadcast, offline exhibition

PREVIEW
The Cartier Foundation for Contemporary Art unveils an exhibition entitled “Trees” in collaboration with the Shanghai Art power station, from July 9 to October 10. The exhibition focuses on one of the world’s oldest creatures (trees, of course) to chart three narratives – scientific knowledge, aesthetics, and ecological tragedy – and features over 200 multidisciplinary works of art. of 30 artists from all over the world. During the opening event on July 8, a panel discussion was broadcast live via Cartier’s Weibo and WeChat accounts. Cartier has also launched a mini WeChat program where visitors can purchase tickets, explore artist biographies, and make reservations for public programs.

REACTION FROM INTERNET USERS
The #MyTree and #TreeExhibition campaign hashtags have so far garnered 11 million views on Weibo. And while the event didn’t generate exceptional traffic on Cartier’s social media, the exhibition announcement posted by the Shanghai Power Station of Art sparked organic engagement among its followers. WeChat users commented on their expectations for the exhibition and its upcoming public education programs, such as lectures, screenings and workshops.

VERDICT
Thanks to the support of the Fondation Cartier pour l’art contemporain à l’art contemporain, Cartier has made cultural integrity part of its brand image. The recently launched exhibition, which takes a cultural approach to sustainability discourses, will educate visitors on many areas of environmental protection and how the brand is dedicated to supporting global artistic communities. Still, there is room for Cartier to improve awareness of the exhibition in China’s social arena.

The C-beauty INTO YOU brand strengthens its offline touchpoints

MARK IN YOU
CATEGORY Beauty
PLATFORMS Weibo
WAY Image, short video, offline pop-up
FEATURED TALENTS Meng Jia (8 million Weibo subscribers)

PREVIEW
C-beauty brand INTO YOU will be opening a new offline pop-up store called Flower Garden of Eden at Shang Raffles City Mall from July 10-20. Young idol and brand ambassador Meng Jia will visit the store on July 13 to celebrate the opening. Decorated in white and light pink with exquisite floral elements, the store will showcase a full range of products, with a particular focus on the brand’s hero lip products.

REACTION FROM INTERNET USERS
INTO YOU has grown in popularity among Chinese beauty buyers, with over 10,000 relevant posts on Little Red Book. The pop-up store, which provides consumers with a physical point of contact with the brand through e-commerce channels, will attract brand followers to the site, as will brand ambassador Meng Jia. The 15-second video teaser featuring Meng generated over 38,500 views on Weibo – a substantial number for an official account with just 36,803 subscribers.

VERDICT
This emerging C-beauty label, specializing in lip products, has seen strong growth over the past year. At the 618 shopping festival 2020, its sales topped $ 5.41 million (RMB 35 million), of which sales of its popular lip mud products reached $ 3.09 million (20 million). Meanwhile, the brand completed an angel fundraising round, jointly provided by Fosun Ruizheng Capital and Sands River Ventures, valued at $ 4.6 million (RMB 30 million) in the first quarter of 2021. This financial injection, as well as the upcoming pop-up store of the brand, are they an indicator of further offline expansion?

Lemaire teams up with Chinese artist at Dover Street market in Beijing

MARK The mayor
CATEGORY Luxury fashion
PLATFORMS Weibo
WAY Pop-up public installation

PREVIEW
French designer label Lemaire collaborated with Chinese artist Lin Yan to unveil a pop-up public installation at Elephant Space in Dover Street Market in Beijing on July 2. The project, “Lin Yan – LEMAIRE: Beijing Gateway”, is inspired by Lin’s investigation of Xuan paper (a type of paper often used by practitioners of Chinese calligraphy and painting) and is in line with the brand’s DNA and its AW21 collection exploring the notions of second skin and clothing as a perfectly proportioned refuge.

REACTION FROM INTERNET USERS
Although Lemaire hasn’t established any official social channels in China, the brand has a decent notoriety among local fashion enthusiasts, with more than 10,000 posts on Little Red Book. The launch of the pop-up installation, announced by local media such as NYLON_CHINA, NOWRE and Bella magazine, received positive reactions from internet users. Many said the layered textures and simplistic colors of the installation echoed the brand’s DNA.

VERDICT
Lemaire’s partnership with Lin Yan is an indicator that the brand is eyeing the Chinese market more. Instead of tapping into the vast Chinese social scene, the brand chose to roll out a creative project at the popular Dover Street Market, the ultimate shopping destination known for its cutting-edge visual merchandising. This agile approach helps Lemaire maintain its notoriety and relevance to its main customers. And as an increasingly recognized brand, from its catwalk presentations to flagship products, Lemaire’s expansion into China looks to be a promising start.

Deluxe ‘Dog Beauty’ is Officially a Thing Thanks to Pampered Pandemic Pets

Known for its $ 1,000 haircuts and premier clientele, New York-based luxury salon Julien Farel has seen a post-pandemic surge in demand for its services. At one point he had a Waiting list of 1,200 people. But it’s not just humans who flock; well-heeled salon clients are joined by their pandemic puppies.

“We have lots and lots of clients who have new dogs,” said salon CEO and co-founder Suelyn Farel, who has noticed a wave of clients coming in to have their hair cut or dyed with their new fur babies. “There seems to be a real craze. Common breeds include French Bulldogs, which “seem to be taking the market by storm right now,” as well as Golden Retriever puppies “and doodles,” she said.

As the new owner of a Samoyed puppy herself, Farel also noticed her clients pampering their new dogs, bringing in puppies with “nice leashes and collars” and Goyard carrying cases. So she decided to add a new product line to the salon’s hair care line in June: the dog grooming brand Pride + Groom.

At $ 54 for a shampoo and conditioner set and $ 85 for a gift set that included a fragrance, Pride + Groom was launched in April of this year by Vogue alumni Regina Haymes and Jane Wagman, with Heather Perlman and the chemical engineer Patricia Machado. They founded the brand for pet parents who wanted more than the standard pet shampoo offering.

The timing has been successful, as pet adoptions increases during the pandemic and consumers increased their spending on their pets. Categorizing itself as a “dog beauty” brand, Pride + Groom offers products for different types of fur, including heavy hairs, non-shedding and animals with sensitive skin. The ingredients shown are what you’ll find in a premium human shampoo, including avocado oil and calendula extract.

“There is this huge tendency to humanize your dogs,” Wegman said.

Haymes added, “You’ve seen all sales of dog supplies increase, from fresh food to these beautiful crates that look like beautiful furniture. [People] wanted to make everything in their dog’s life better because dogs were our calming therapists during the pandemic. But when it comes to grooming products, the options were limited.

“We realized that there really isn’t a dog business that’s a beauty business,” Wegman said.

Farel heard about the brand when Haymes, a salon client, came in for a haircut. “It’s nice to be pampered, because the products work; they give the results for the dog and they smell really good, ”said Farel.

The Farel trade fair partnership is not unique to the Oprah’s Favorite Things-approved brand, which is stocked in luxury retailers and more well-known salons for human beauty products. Besides conventional retail channels such as Amazon, Chewy.com, and premium groomers, Pride + Groom also sells through New York-based Fekkai, Bloomingdale’s, Selfridges, and Onda Beauty salons. For Mother’s Day, the brand launched a giveaway with celebrity hairstylist Harry Josh. It’s also sold in fitness guru Isaac Boots’ summer pop-up retail store in the Hamptons.

“People seem open to purchasing dog cosmetics when they are about to get their [own] services rendered, ”said Haymes.

This follows a trend of high-end human beauty brands launching pet products at high-end retailers. This includes Yeah, who recently launched its pet shampoo permanently at Sephora. Aesop, Kiehl’s and Pink Moon also offer dog shampoos.

Pride + Groom’s bold black and white branding is designed to deliver an upscale feel. The founders wanted to create bottles that pet owners would “leave on the [bathroon] counter and not feel pressured to hide it, ”Wegman said. “The goal was that it is as beautiful as any other beauty product you are proud to display.”

Dogs “want to feel good; they want to be glamorous, ”said Haymes. “When you love something, you humanize it.”

Maybelline and Dove ranked among top Gen Z beauty brands

When it comes to Gen Z’s favorite beauty brands, a new report reveals accessible drugstore names topping the list.

Media firm Kyra’s Gen Z state of beauty report released Monday reveals Maybelline ranks # 1 in makeup brands and Dove leads skincare in survey with 3,500 people aged 13 to 25. Mass brands that have been successful on TikTok over the past year have performed particularly well, with Elf and Nyx completing the top three for makeup, and Hyram, CeraVe, in second place for skincare. In addition to TikTok’s virality, other factors influencing Gen Z favorites included YouTube, recommendations from influencers and brand values.

Carried out between May 2021 and June 2021, the report found that Maybelline had retained its No.1 makeup brand place among respondents since 2019, gaining percentage points in 2021. According to Marnie Levan, Maybelline’s vice president for integrated communications with consumers, the brand’s success with Gen Z comes from its investment in relevant influencer and celebrity marketing across major Gen Z social channels.

In March, Maybelline announced the 17-year-old actress “Euphoria” and “Suicide Squad” Storm Reid as global spokesperson, followed by K-pop group Itzy in April.

Maybelline particularly benefited from the mascara category, which according to the Kyra report was the most important makeup product for Gen Z respondents – a third said they couldn’t do without mascara in their collection. makeup. Maybelline’s Sky High mascara has sold four times at Ulta Beauty following the success of the brand’s TikTok campaign in December 2020, Levan said. A sponsored post for the campaign by influencer TikTok @ jessica.eid_ has gone viral, gaining 5.2 million views and 1 million likes. This inspired many users to put the video together to try out the mascara for themselves.

“Consumers would rush into stores and then film the contents of their first reaction to their cars,” Levan said. She noted that TikTok has “played a key strategic role in promoting relevance with Gen Z” over the past year, with the brand’s investments in paid, owned and earned content. The brand strives to be “fully immersed in the social landscape” and is also seeing success with Gen Z on Instagram Reels, Twitter and YouTube.

Maybelline “had an ambitious and very cohesive strategy on TikTok,” said Marina Mansour, head of beauty partnerships at Kyra. She added that the brand is popular with the Gen Z audience because it “uses the channel that this audience leans toward for discovery, when it comes to cosmetics.”

Elf, who went from ninth place in 2019, to second place for makeup.

Elf is “a key innovative brand when it comes to doing interesting things on TikTok,” Mansour said. This notably includes its successful Eyes, Lips, Face campaign which was one of the first branding campaigns to go viral on the platform, she said. She added that Nyx, in third place, adopted a similar strategy. Elf has particularly focused on reaching Generation Z via new platforms; he also ran campaigns on Twitch and Triller and launched new promotions like his Chipotle collaboration.

Nyx and Elf also point out that they are cruelty-free and vegan, which the survey found was a big factor for Gen Z. In total, 53% of those surveyed said they would stop using a brand. tested on animals, while 50% said they wouldn’t buy a brand if it wasn’t certified cruelty-free.

Dove, meanwhile, was the number one skincare brand, which may have grown due to its values-driven marketing campaigns battling unrealistic beauty standards and heavy photo retouching, Mansour said. TikTok’s appeal was evident, with CeraVe reaching second in 2021 after failing to reach the top 10 in 2019. The brand was significantly bolstered by skincare influencer Hyram Yarbro, whose organic endorsement of CeraVe has evolved into a brand partnership.

“You can’t underestimate the power and trust Hyram has in skin care across the Gen Z audience,” Mansour said.

Mass labels have proven to be popular with Generation Z. For skin care, classic teen acne brands Neutrogena and Clean & Clear also made the top 10. Ordinary, meanwhile, also made it into the top 10. continued their own ascent with Gen Z after their peel mask gained organic fame on TikTok last year. .

Although Glossier was on the 2019 makeup and skincare lists, he was not on any of the rankings in 2021.

“Glossier is much more of a millennial brand,” Mansour said.

While TikTok has proven to be particularly important, it has become the second most important social platform after YouTube to influence users to add a new product to their skincare routine. For general online beauty information, Gen Z look to YouTube first, followed by TikTok, and then Instagram. Online reviews were cited as the main influence on buying decisions, followed by influencer tutorials in second and friends and family as third. Less than 10% of Gen Z respondents said that television influences their purchasing decisions.

According to Mansour, the dominance of mass brands doesn’t mean premium labels can’t also resonate with Gen Z. “Price is always a factor to consider, but when you shoot the things we know how to make a move Generation Z, that is, creativity, online reviews and creators supporting a product, price is no longer as big a barrier as it used to be.

MECCA Founder Jo Horgan on the Changing Face of Beauty: “I wanted to turn the industry upside down”

Way of life

When MECCA founder Jo Horgan opened her first store at age 29, she had no idea there would one day be over 100 stores in Australasia. Photo / Supplied

Beauty retailers like MECCA have helped revolutionize the way we think about beauty today. As her new New Zealand store opens in Sylvia Park, founder Jo Horgan reflects on how the industry has evolved to keep pace with evolving beauty ideals.

She chats with Bethany Reitsma about the evolution towards more accessible makeup, how Covid-19 has affected the industry, and beauty trends we can expect to see in the future.

When Jo Horgan opened the first MECCA store in 1997 in South Yarra, Melbourne, the 29-year-old had no idea the brand would expand into more than 100 stores in New Zealand and Australia.

A store in Ponsonby, Auckland was the brand’s first foray outside Australia, opening in 2007. Branches in Wellington, Newmarket and Christchurch quickly followed.

Horgan’s goal was simple: to bring the best beauty brands home to the consumer. And that has helped make beauty more accessible to New Zealanders who wear makeup.

Walking into a MECCA store is a far cry from the intimidating department store beauty counters, all locked cabinets, and dizzying mirrors.

“I found the traditional beauty experience of department stores, where you went from one big brand counter to another, too overwhelming,” says Horgan. “I wanted to try an approach where we could provide independent advice across brands.”

Yes, MECCA offers premium brands like Tom Ford and Yves Saint Laurent, but you can also find your loyal NARS and Too Faced here. The house brands Mecca Max and Mecca Cosmetica are offered at an even more affordable price.

It is this quality of every girl (and boy) that appeals to Kiwi buyers. Whether it’s skincare, makeup, perfume or candles, there is something for every taste and budget. We no longer have to go online to find beauty products that we have seen on our favorite beauty bloggers in the UK and US.

“Accessibility is also about information and education,” Horgan told the Herald. “Everything we do aims to demystify the beauty experience, brands, products and ingredients.

“From the start, my vision was that we were going to democratize beauty. I wanted to shake up the industry, the beauty culture of the time, because I felt that all the power lay with the brands and the retailers, and not with the customers.

A new multi-level store has just opened in Auckland's Sylvia Park shopping center.  Photo / Supplied
A new multi-level store has just opened in Auckland’s Sylvia Park shopping center. Photo / Supplied

But it’s not just accessibility and affordability that we’re looking for at the makeup counter in 2021. Clean beauty and well-being have become more important than ever. A recent American study discovered that more than half of beauty products contain toxic chemicals ‘forever’ that impact our health and the environment, and this has sparked calls to regulate the makeup industry in New Zealand .

The Covid-19 pandemic has also played a role in forcing us to rethink how we access and consume these products, and how they affect our overall health and well-being.

“Personal care is an important part of beauty, and in recent years we have seen a real blurring of the lines between beauty and wellness,” said the beauty manager.

The pandemic has made beauty treatments and home routines a necessity – but now more and more of us are choosing them, she observes.

“Skincare has become increasingly popular with clients who are creating new rituals and routines while testing devices to recreate the results of professional facials at home.

“It’s really forced retailers to innovate at a much faster pace, especially in the digital space and now that virtual services and live experiences have been introduced, they’re definitely here to stay. pandemic silver lining. “

The beauty industry is constantly evolving, but that’s what Horgan loves about it – and that’s what keeps Kiwis coming back time and time again.