Botanical puzzles

Beauty consumers love everything natural, but they also want products that work. This has created a huge demand in the market for highly effective herbal medicines.

However, it is extremely difficult to create a botanical extract that can surpass the effectiveness of synthetically produced actives, said Andrea Taimana, Founder and Scientific Director of Kiwi Organic Bioactives.

“When we start isolating certain compounds from plants, they may not even work anymore, because plants are living organisms. It’s like the human body – There are vitamins, minerals, hormones, neurotransmitters, and everything has to work in alliance with each other. You just can’t isolate something like a red blood cell and expect it to work on its own.Have
For years, Taimana has observed the vitality of plants collected from the wild, noting their superior size, among other qualities.

“For example, you can see leaves in the New Zealand pine forest that are three times the size. It’s incredible. So we thought about how we can create a synchronized alliance to achieve a high level of bioactivity through wild harvest. “Have

To put it simply, the company investigated how it can extract compounds from different plants and combine them to create a highly effective active that can trump synthetic ones.

In order to solve this botanical puzzle, Organic Bioactives worked with local harvesters from the Maori community to grow selected plants in groups to observe how they support or elevate each other.

The company researched a variety of different native plants from pine and black fern to native Centella asiatica and learned how they work in synchronicity with each other.

The company has received a government grant that supports projects combining science and traditional knowledge.

The main objective of this research is to create a synchronized alliance of bioactive plants and to attack the disrupted skin biome ”, Taimana told us.

“We want to develop a product that will replace, like mineral petroleum jelly, products that are synthetically produced and generally used to protect the skin biome of irritated and rosacea-prone skin, the skin that cannot use bioactives because it is too responsive. “Have

Flavonoids: the next level

Flavonoids aren’t a new ingredient in beauty, but we’re only just starting to scratch the surface of their potential in cosmetics.

The interest in flavonoids stems from the growing attention they arouse in the nutraceutical, medicinal and therapeutic, pharmaceutical fields.

“Research on phytonutrients has grown exponentially since the 1990s. One of the most promising classes of phytonutrients is the class known as flavonoids which contains hundreds of different compounds,” said Dr Evan Stephens, chief biotechnologist at Australian ingredients company Native Extracts.

Flavonoids have been shown to have positive effects on metabolic processes within our cells and support our body’s capacity for regeneration and repair.

“Some Haveof these flavonoids are very powerful anti-inflammatory drugs. This is really good because more and more we see inflammation as a problem in a lot of people, whether it is due to a poor diet, lack of exercise, or aspects related to the way of. life or environmental aspects.Have

Lisa Carroll, director of Native Extracts, added that inflammation is becoming an increasingly important skin care concern.

“Cosmetically, inflammation is linked to your skin barrier. We are seeing inflammation getting pretty big in the skin care arena because we are seeing a lot of skin sensitization and reaction to products that cause skin problems.Have

She elaborated: “What we are really seeing today is that we are being bombarded with free radicals. We are constantly under attack, whether it is because of our environment, our diet or stress. If our body is in an oxidized state, this is where we need these type of compounds to support our function of cellular functions.Have

Native Extracts closely studied anthocyanin and quercetin, which are among the most studied flavonoids with around 30,000 scientific studies on each.

In particular, the company investigated the presence of anthocyanins and quercetin in native Australian plants, such as queen plum garnet, mountain pepper berry, quandong, and emu apple.

Stephens explained that he studied these raw materials to find a combination of natural compounds that work together. For example, Queen Garnet Plum contains both quercetin and anthocyanin.

“The most important synergy is really to make the aqueous or water-soluble flavonoids work with the more fat-soluble membranes. “Have

Carroll added: “In terms of flavonoids, what we’re really interested in is this entourage – these combinations of natural compounds that work together because this synergy is so important.”Have

In recent years, studies have focused on topical applications and the skin’s ability to absorb specific flavonoid compounds in the epidermal and dermal layers to support skin health.

“Going forward, it’s really about starting to look at the different types of flavonoids and the different individual flavonoids within the different classes… That’s where I think a lot of the new research is. will focus. Just because we started with quercetin doesn’t mean it’s the best ”, said Stephens.

Upcycled concentrates

By now, it should be obvious that highly effective botanical ingredients are the future of the natural beauty market.

However, with a growing awareness of sustainability, consumers are realizing that natural is not always the most environmentally friendly choice.

Sanam is a Colombian company that has used coffee cherry waste in a highly concentrated ingredient with protective properties called Naox Derma.

“This is a great example of true upcycling innovation. The reality is that 60% of the coffee cherry is residual biomass. They extract the bean and bulldoze the rest of the fruit on the side – and it’s a fruit rich in polyphenols ”,said Jeff Avila, Managing Director of Flora Reserve, Sanam’s distribution partner.

While the ingredient is already present in the nutraceutical space, the company is trying to break into the cosmetics market.

Avila said CosmeticsDesign-Asiathat due to its high concentration, such ingredients would likely have rich, dark colors, which he admitted can seem intimidating to formulators.

However, he predicted that concentrates would generate more interest in the cosmetics market in the future.

“It’s no longer a question of finding a trendy ingredient and sprinkling with fairy powder so as not to spoil a perfectly white cream. There is this movement where consumers are realizing theHave good phytocompounds are rich in color, so we are seeing more and more formulas bringing higher concentrations of medicinal plants to the market.Have

This, he said, opens the market to a new avenue of innovation and the industry could start exploring other food by-products.

“It could really open the door for some really rich concentrates to find their way into skin care formulations. Not necessarily in all applications, but I think it will be a new area of ​​research. “Have

Avila added that such highly concentrated superfood actives could have great potential in the Asian beauty market.

“Whether you’re talking about Southeast Asia, Korea or China, there is a strong heritage of using herbs and plants. And there are a lot of Asian superfruits. If you look at India, we have things like amla berry… There is a very strong tradition of using these ingredients, which I think lends itself to some kind of acceptance or at least some acceptance. interest in trying new botanical active ingredients.Have

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